Birthdays and Bungee Jumping

Well-rested from my Namhansanseong excursion, this weekend I prepared myself for an adventure. The occasion? My friend Rob’s birthday. The plan was as follows:

Friday Night: Celebratory Dinner followed by rooftop party in Itaewon

The result: Mission Accomplished, with some relocations… First on a rooftop in Itaewon, then in a park in Noksapyeong, and finally at Rob’s apartment in Samgakji – lugging a keg the entire way.

From left to right: Cho, Nina, yours truly, Rob (the man of the hour), Susan, Mark, and Joowon.

Saturday: Bike ride to Bundang and Bungee Jumping

The result: Mission Totally Accomplished. Okay, sure, I got lost a little bit on the bike ride – my fault, though, so I’m not complaining – but the company was awesome and the bungee jumping amazing.



Saturday Night: The rest of the keg…


The result: Success!

Sunday Night: Sleep!

The result: Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Namhansanseong: One Things Leads Into Another

After the frenetic pace of the last few weeks this last weekend was a time for somber reflection and more than a little sleep. I still found the time, however, to go with a new friend – Rozalia, who I met at Muuido – on a small exploratory hike on the southeastern side of Seoul. It was, in a word, awesome. The hike was nothing to speak of – I am quickly being spoiled rotten by Korea’s amazing mountains – but the company was wonderful and the sights were second to none. Where else could I see an ancient Korean fortress walls, freshly tilled fields, and the single most beautiful temple I’ve ever seen? This country is just full of suprises.


The Southern Gate

Because every hike needs bubbles.

What? You're just jealous.

The fields, oh my god, the fields!

Rozalia with fields.

"Rozalia, how much do you love Namhansanseong?" "This much, Frankel!"


Mangwolsa (er, Mangwol Temple)







Yep. Utter perfection.

Muuido: A Day (or two) at the Beach

So Sarah left last Thursday and I was sorry to see her go but she’ll doubtless be sorrier once she finds out what I got up to after she left: a real beach trip!*
See, last weekend was a trip to the East Sea – the one between Korea and Japan – and although we had fun, the weather was a bit off and the water downright cold. By contrast, this weekend was a trip to the West Sea – the one between Korea and China – and both the weather and water were sublime. Check it:


Although the West Coast tides are a bit extreme…


So it was a good, relaxing weekend. The beach was actually on an island off the coast, so it was wonderfully isolated (as compared with Seoul proper). After our first swim we came back to find an impromptu, barefoot soccer game underway on the beach. Naturally we joined in and it was, honestly, the most fun I’ve had in months.



This is what happens when you score. Fortunately I didn’t score. I did help though...^^


That night we had a bonfire on the beach, watched the stars come out, lit fireworks, and drank a lot of soju. No one woke up for the sunrise hike but we did eventually stumble out to the tallest peak on the island and were rewarded with views like this:

... and people like this:

Yep, all in all it was a great weekend. I met some great people, go to know a few others better still, and came back with a wicked tan. Muuido, mi corazon, nos vemos pronto. ^^

* Shh… don’t tell her!

Home Away From Home

My, my, my, where does the time go? Actually, don't answer that; knowing only makes it worse. No, not worse. Better, definitely better. I'm hardly living a life of purpose in Seoul* but I am certainly living life. Take the weekend before last:
My old, dear, friend Sarah came to vist me here in Seoul for a long weekend and it was wonderful. As much as I like my vagabond lifestyle, you see, I do get homesick from time to time. As good of a time as I have with my new friends here, they are just that: new. It's all new and exciting but it's hardly comfortable. Think chicken soup vs. thai fusion. It's a consequence of my life, I agree, that makes chicken soup so hard to come by. So it was pleasant in and of itself to see a friend I've known for fully ten years in a city I've known for less than two months. Nice to see my old friend with my new ones.
But, but, but it was better still to explore a bit of Korea with her. We went with some friends to the east coast - we eventually met all of Sarah's key requests: 1) beach; 2) karaoke; and 3) shopping - where two days of sheer madness ensued.

Our highlights include:

Palaces, temples, and bulgogi - oh my!


Hiking in the rain!

Swimming in the [absolutely freezing] East Sea (and being photgraphed by friendly Korean men who actually asked permission and then mailed us the pictures!)

Fireworks on the beach!


Noraebang [Korean karaoke]


A Penis Park. I won't even try to explain this one.

An underground cavern of epic proportions.

I think I even managed to convince Sarah to move to Korea once her contract in Japan expires in September. If so her visit will have been doubly good; not only was it nice to see a friendly face but she is independent confirmation that I'm not crazy: this place really is amazing!

*Oh but I wish!

Korean War Memorial

It's been a weird few weeks here South of the Border. Like I mentioned before, Roh's death drew the attention of many away from North Korea's latest saber rattling but as the week drew to an end I found myself more contemplative than usual. The result: a highly surreal visit to Seoul's War Memorial. I can't explain exactly what drew me there but I went as if compelled as the sun set on another week in Korea. Maybe it was the fading light combined with the immediacy of recent events, but it was still sight to behold.*






Thank God for the sweet, simple relief of flowers!




*Which is exactly why I make this post as the first of a series of three, to share with you my experience but to take the edge off them.

Surisan

Another day, another hike (but you'll never hear me complaining!). As good as the weather was on Saturday for the Bulamsan hike, it was even better on Sunday for Surisan. Better still, unlike any of my other hikes to date, Surisan is practically in my backyard. [Actually, technically, this 500 meter mountain is literally in my office's backyard - how cool is that?] So I went, I climbed, I enjoyed (myself). The views were spectacular but the real highlight, at least for me, was the temple near its base. I still find them so wonderfully moving. Maybe it's their unembarrassed piety, their use of color - so distinctly not Western - or the simple fact that they alone in this increasingly globalized Korea are so distinctly not Western. Whatever it is, you can't argue with this:







Or this:

Bulamsam

My friend Jessica sent me an e-mail the other day asking, among other things, "I thought you were living in the city?" Which is a perfectly valid question, given just how many of my blog posts revolve around hiking and the generally accepted notion that cities make for bad hiking hotspots. Only in this regard, like in so many others, Korea is an exception: Seoul and its suburbs are defined by the mountains, mountains which are therefore tantalizingly close and aching to be climbed. Plus they're a damned sight more picturesque than the city itself!

This has never before been so true as with Bulamsan, located on the northeastern edge of Seoul.







It was a short, easy hike on a picture perfect day that concluded with drinks and boendegi [silkworms]. Who could ask for anything more?