Heading South

What a strange and wonderful world it is. Last weekend was white water rafting and river trekking; this weekend was dragon boat racing and temple visits.
So get this: a small industrial city in the south of South Korea, Ulsan, was selected as the site of the third annual International Dragon Boat Championships. I, like you, had no idea such a thing even existed but as it was scheduled for the same time as one of the biggest events of the Korean summer – the Boryeong Mud Festival – I was soon to become very well informed. See, even though the event was being held in Korea the competition from Boryeong kept Korean participation drastically low. So low, in fact, that they paid a group of Koreans and expats – myself included! – to head down there and compete. We weren’t representing Korea or anything (heck, we were barely representing ourselves) but it was damned fun. Best of all, this group of untried amateurs actually finished ahead of a couple of teams, taking fourth in a six boat race.

Hip-hip-hurrah!

...Totally fake...


...totally not!

Now, you know me; I had already committed my weekend to the races and so when they finished up around noon on Saturday, I didn't call it quits. No, instead of heading back to the city I got in touch with a local couchsurfer - Dave Swede, an absolutely amazing host - who put up with me, three friends, plenty of bad puns, and worse beer.
A good time was had by all but the real highlight was the next day. En route north to Seoul we decided to stop off in the ancient city of Gyeongju - home of Bulguk Temple, one of the three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Korea. The temple was simply beautiful and the town itself like a living museum. The whole place was almost deserted - oh the joys of being a tourist in Korea!




A wonderful escape from the city and, all in all, I'd say it was a hell of a weekend.^^

Mexican Night, or Me and My Big Mouth

When my friend William mentioned how he hadn’t eaten good Mexican food in ages I should have just let it go. I should not, I repeat, not, have reminded him that I used to live in Mexico and was not too bad at a handful of dishes. More importantly, I should not have encouraged him to put together a Mexican-themed dinner party. But, but, but barring all that even I couldn’t be foolish enough to suggest my place as the venue.

… I but I am and I did – and I don’t regret it for a second.

Last night about fifteen my best friends in Seoul travelled from far and wide – on a weeknight, no less – to break break [tortillas?] with me and although things were not exactly flawless a good time was had by all.

I made hummus and fajitas, Rob quesadillas, Rozalia eggplant dip, Sue pico de gallo, Zarate guacamole, Mike salad, and William brought just about everything else. Everyone, of course, helped drink the tequila. ^^




Check out Connie's awesome surprise cameo - I love it!

Let’s Get Wet!

It’s hot. Very, very, very hot. Not Monterrey hot, but it’s close. Thus far it hasn’t stopped my hiking – I mean, who are we kidding? – but it found me searching for ways to indulge my favorite pasttime and keep cool at the same time.
Enter, stage left, water trekking – hiking along side and, hopefully at times, in a river.
I mean, you really would have thought that, as a Floridian, this would have occurred to be before, but better late than never.
Regardless, it was an idyllic way to celebrate The 4th of July and far superior to the white water rafting we tried out the day before. [I guess it just hasn’t rained quite enough yet to make rafting worthwhile]. I mean, both were fun river trekking wins by a landslide.
Check it:

Birthdays and Bungee Jumping

Well-rested from my Namhansanseong excursion, this weekend I prepared myself for an adventure. The occasion? My friend Rob’s birthday. The plan was as follows:

Friday Night: Celebratory Dinner followed by rooftop party in Itaewon

The result: Mission Accomplished, with some relocations… First on a rooftop in Itaewon, then in a park in Noksapyeong, and finally at Rob’s apartment in Samgakji – lugging a keg the entire way.

From left to right: Cho, Nina, yours truly, Rob (the man of the hour), Susan, Mark, and Joowon.

Saturday: Bike ride to Bundang and Bungee Jumping

The result: Mission Totally Accomplished. Okay, sure, I got lost a little bit on the bike ride – my fault, though, so I’m not complaining – but the company was awesome and the bungee jumping amazing.



Saturday Night: The rest of the keg…


The result: Success!

Sunday Night: Sleep!

The result: Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Namhansanseong: One Things Leads Into Another

After the frenetic pace of the last few weeks this last weekend was a time for somber reflection and more than a little sleep. I still found the time, however, to go with a new friend – Rozalia, who I met at Muuido – on a small exploratory hike on the southeastern side of Seoul. It was, in a word, awesome. The hike was nothing to speak of – I am quickly being spoiled rotten by Korea’s amazing mountains – but the company was wonderful and the sights were second to none. Where else could I see an ancient Korean fortress walls, freshly tilled fields, and the single most beautiful temple I’ve ever seen? This country is just full of suprises.


The Southern Gate

Because every hike needs bubbles.

What? You're just jealous.

The fields, oh my god, the fields!

Rozalia with fields.

"Rozalia, how much do you love Namhansanseong?" "This much, Frankel!"


Mangwolsa (er, Mangwol Temple)







Yep. Utter perfection.

Muuido: A Day (or two) at the Beach

So Sarah left last Thursday and I was sorry to see her go but she’ll doubtless be sorrier once she finds out what I got up to after she left: a real beach trip!*
See, last weekend was a trip to the East Sea – the one between Korea and Japan – and although we had fun, the weather was a bit off and the water downright cold. By contrast, this weekend was a trip to the West Sea – the one between Korea and China – and both the weather and water were sublime. Check it:


Although the West Coast tides are a bit extreme…


So it was a good, relaxing weekend. The beach was actually on an island off the coast, so it was wonderfully isolated (as compared with Seoul proper). After our first swim we came back to find an impromptu, barefoot soccer game underway on the beach. Naturally we joined in and it was, honestly, the most fun I’ve had in months.



This is what happens when you score. Fortunately I didn’t score. I did help though...^^


That night we had a bonfire on the beach, watched the stars come out, lit fireworks, and drank a lot of soju. No one woke up for the sunrise hike but we did eventually stumble out to the tallest peak on the island and were rewarded with views like this:

... and people like this:

Yep, all in all it was a great weekend. I met some great people, go to know a few others better still, and came back with a wicked tan. Muuido, mi corazon, nos vemos pronto. ^^

* Shh… don’t tell her!

Home Away From Home

My, my, my, where does the time go? Actually, don't answer that; knowing only makes it worse. No, not worse. Better, definitely better. I'm hardly living a life of purpose in Seoul* but I am certainly living life. Take the weekend before last:
My old, dear, friend Sarah came to vist me here in Seoul for a long weekend and it was wonderful. As much as I like my vagabond lifestyle, you see, I do get homesick from time to time. As good of a time as I have with my new friends here, they are just that: new. It's all new and exciting but it's hardly comfortable. Think chicken soup vs. thai fusion. It's a consequence of my life, I agree, that makes chicken soup so hard to come by. So it was pleasant in and of itself to see a friend I've known for fully ten years in a city I've known for less than two months. Nice to see my old friend with my new ones.
But, but, but it was better still to explore a bit of Korea with her. We went with some friends to the east coast - we eventually met all of Sarah's key requests: 1) beach; 2) karaoke; and 3) shopping - where two days of sheer madness ensued.

Our highlights include:

Palaces, temples, and bulgogi - oh my!


Hiking in the rain!

Swimming in the [absolutely freezing] East Sea (and being photgraphed by friendly Korean men who actually asked permission and then mailed us the pictures!)

Fireworks on the beach!


Noraebang [Korean karaoke]


A Penis Park. I won't even try to explain this one.

An underground cavern of epic proportions.

I think I even managed to convince Sarah to move to Korea once her contract in Japan expires in September. If so her visit will have been doubly good; not only was it nice to see a friendly face but she is independent confirmation that I'm not crazy: this place really is amazing!

*Oh but I wish!

Korean War Memorial

It's been a weird few weeks here South of the Border. Like I mentioned before, Roh's death drew the attention of many away from North Korea's latest saber rattling but as the week drew to an end I found myself more contemplative than usual. The result: a highly surreal visit to Seoul's War Memorial. I can't explain exactly what drew me there but I went as if compelled as the sun set on another week in Korea. Maybe it was the fading light combined with the immediacy of recent events, but it was still sight to behold.*






Thank God for the sweet, simple relief of flowers!




*Which is exactly why I make this post as the first of a series of three, to share with you my experience but to take the edge off them.