At The Races

It was a nice, slow weekend here in Seoul. A welcome change of pace. I spent a lot of time talking to loved ones, climbed a new trail on the local mountain, caught a group of Korean university students performing Portuguese music, and, on a whim, went to the city's horse racing track. It's the horse track that proved most photogenic, though, and this entry is mostly a photo dump for exactly that. I mean, it was a lot of fun!

It was my idea, I'll admit, but it was Seth who truly got excited about it, see:




I mean come one, there was only one horse in the paddock!



But, nestled next to Gwanaksan and the Han River, I have to admit that even on a drizzly day the grounds were pretty nice and the view impressive.




Eventually we found an English-language betting book, Seth taught me how to bet, and we made our wagers. There is a bit of a learning curve, apparently, as Seth's first bet (and only winner of the day) didn't count. I won a few place bets myself but still came in behind for the day. Nevertheless, Seth's enthusiasm was infectious!



Plus the horses were really pretty!




(Although favored to win, this guy did not - he did, however, place, netting me a cool 100 won [nine cents]. I'm much, much too conservative to be a real gambler!)

Matt-ilda.

This just slid across my proverbial desk and its too good not to share. Also from the Halloween scavenger hunt, here's Matt showing off some cars at Yongan Station. I think he's got a real bright (blue) future, don't you?

Seoul Scavenger Hunt 2009

It's amazing what you can do with a little free time and enthusiasm. Take the above image - the best I can do with my limited graphic design abilities - or the event itself as an example.

See, it was my friend Matt's idea but my execution.

By the way, this is Matt (on Halloween, at least):


Have a beer on a bus.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The idea was simple.
1) compile a list of things you can only see or do in Korea;
2) find or complete them;
3) take pictures (for proof - and later botched political campaigns).

Here are some sample items:
- Convince a stranger to do the "Sorry Sorry" dance with you.
- Fish market costume contest.
- Walk into a hagwon* and insist on signing up for English lessons.
- Give away "free hugs"

* Private English Academy

The event itself was hysterical. Althought only about fifteen people turned out because of the rain and cold (damned weather!), we all still managed to have a blast.

Here are some of the highlights:

Locals dressed up for Halloween

Finish in a costume


Meet people from different countries: this Australian showed us his umbrella/didgeridoo


Relax on a couch left in the street.


Team member in a Korean traditional dress. Bonus: a male team member.

Back in the swing of things: Seoraksan in Autumn

Korea's tourism slogans are often laughably bad. I'd like, in some small way, to mitigate that statement – to make it sound more diplomatic or at least less catty – but it's true. Take their latest masterpiece:

Yep, there are not 365, not 730, but 1095 days in a Korean tourism year. Naturally, as many of us are here as English teachers, it's little wonder that little gems like this take the form of memes that repeat themselves over and over again in the expat circles. Other famous examples?



By far my favorite (to mock), though, has always been this one:


Four Distinct Seasons

BUT, BUT, BUT how wrong I've been. No, really. Since my trip to Seoraksan* last weekend I've seen the light. It might actually take three years to properly see this sparkling country and its four distinct seasons. Seriously.

Now, I have no intention of testing my hypothesis – I'm out in less than two months – but the autumn colors on the slopes of Seoraksan have me questioning just about everything these days. It was simply phenomenal.

Now, as any reader of this blog knows, I've done my fair share of hiking in Korea.* All of it – and I mean all of it – pales in comparison to this hike.

Let me explain the set-up. It was a three day, 14-person trip I led in conjunction with a hiking group I'm a member of. I hadn't even intended to go in the first place but circumstances resulted in an opportunity to go for free – in exchange for leading the team – and so, eager for the experience as well as the free vacation, I went along.

Boy, am I glad I did.

We left Friday night, shortly before midnight, and (groggily) arrived at the trailhead around 7am Saturday. (Korea's small – we actually arrived at 4am but the bus idled while we slept.) From there it was up and down in a single day. Up Korea's second-tallest mountain (1709m) and then down the other side. It was easier said than done but nevertheless not too bad. Unfortunately the way to the top was four hours up, wholly on an incline and mostly covered by clouds. By the time we reached the first shelter, just past the summit, at noon, visibility was a thing of the past.


[Hiking group huddling for warmth.]

[Naturally Mohy was too manly to feel cold. That makes one of us.]



On the way down, though, the clouds parted and slope eased up. It was spectacular. Clear skies in some places all the way to the East Sea with nothing but craggy peaks and brilliant treetops in the foreground.

[Look, Mom, I'm a tree!]

The downslope also featured gorgeous waterfalls and streams – so inviting but so cold! - that were so captivating we were racing the sunset to finish before dark. In that one regard we failed, slightly, but happily so.





Having completed the hike we headed to our hotel situated mere meters from the East Sea. That night I made the team dinner – salsa con queso and Italian sausages – in our rooms and my friend Kate made us s'mores along the beach.

It was a late night for a long day but a truly amazing one at that.

BUT BUT BUT the next morning was almost better. Waking up, we went to the beach. The sky was clear, the sands were white, and the water blue. It was perfect. So, too, were the pictures.

[Apparently the East Sea is the place for pictures for me.]

Oh, and as if to complete my Korea photo trifecta, there a temple. A beautiful, exceptional temple. Both exceptionally beautiful and also just plain exceptional: where most temples in Korea are in the mountains, this one - Naksansa - was ib a beachside cliff. Thus a good temple made better by its setting. Check it:



So, yep, all in all it was a great weekend. One of the best yet in Korea. Here's to two more months in Korea!

* I stopped counting ages ago, but I'd easily topped 50 by August. I mean, what else can the functionally illiterate do with their time?

Heading South

What a strange and wonderful world it is. Last weekend was white water rafting and river trekking; this weekend was dragon boat racing and temple visits.
So get this: a small industrial city in the south of South Korea, Ulsan, was selected as the site of the third annual International Dragon Boat Championships. I, like you, had no idea such a thing even existed but as it was scheduled for the same time as one of the biggest events of the Korean summer – the Boryeong Mud Festival – I was soon to become very well informed. See, even though the event was being held in Korea the competition from Boryeong kept Korean participation drastically low. So low, in fact, that they paid a group of Koreans and expats – myself included! – to head down there and compete. We weren’t representing Korea or anything (heck, we were barely representing ourselves) but it was damned fun. Best of all, this group of untried amateurs actually finished ahead of a couple of teams, taking fourth in a six boat race.

Hip-hip-hurrah!

...Totally fake...


...totally not!

Now, you know me; I had already committed my weekend to the races and so when they finished up around noon on Saturday, I didn't call it quits. No, instead of heading back to the city I got in touch with a local couchsurfer - Dave Swede, an absolutely amazing host - who put up with me, three friends, plenty of bad puns, and worse beer.
A good time was had by all but the real highlight was the next day. En route north to Seoul we decided to stop off in the ancient city of Gyeongju - home of Bulguk Temple, one of the three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Korea. The temple was simply beautiful and the town itself like a living museum. The whole place was almost deserted - oh the joys of being a tourist in Korea!




A wonderful escape from the city and, all in all, I'd say it was a hell of a weekend.^^

Mexican Night, or Me and My Big Mouth

When my friend William mentioned how he hadn’t eaten good Mexican food in ages I should have just let it go. I should not, I repeat, not, have reminded him that I used to live in Mexico and was not too bad at a handful of dishes. More importantly, I should not have encouraged him to put together a Mexican-themed dinner party. But, but, but barring all that even I couldn’t be foolish enough to suggest my place as the venue.

… I but I am and I did – and I don’t regret it for a second.

Last night about fifteen my best friends in Seoul travelled from far and wide – on a weeknight, no less – to break break [tortillas?] with me and although things were not exactly flawless a good time was had by all.

I made hummus and fajitas, Rob quesadillas, Rozalia eggplant dip, Sue pico de gallo, Zarate guacamole, Mike salad, and William brought just about everything else. Everyone, of course, helped drink the tequila. ^^




Check out Connie's awesome surprise cameo - I love it!

Let’s Get Wet!

It’s hot. Very, very, very hot. Not Monterrey hot, but it’s close. Thus far it hasn’t stopped my hiking – I mean, who are we kidding? – but it found me searching for ways to indulge my favorite pasttime and keep cool at the same time.
Enter, stage left, water trekking – hiking along side and, hopefully at times, in a river.
I mean, you really would have thought that, as a Floridian, this would have occurred to be before, but better late than never.
Regardless, it was an idyllic way to celebrate The 4th of July and far superior to the white water rafting we tried out the day before. [I guess it just hasn’t rained quite enough yet to make rafting worthwhile]. I mean, both were fun river trekking wins by a landslide.
Check it:

Birthdays and Bungee Jumping

Well-rested from my Namhansanseong excursion, this weekend I prepared myself for an adventure. The occasion? My friend Rob’s birthday. The plan was as follows:

Friday Night: Celebratory Dinner followed by rooftop party in Itaewon

The result: Mission Accomplished, with some relocations… First on a rooftop in Itaewon, then in a park in Noksapyeong, and finally at Rob’s apartment in Samgakji – lugging a keg the entire way.

From left to right: Cho, Nina, yours truly, Rob (the man of the hour), Susan, Mark, and Joowon.

Saturday: Bike ride to Bundang and Bungee Jumping

The result: Mission Totally Accomplished. Okay, sure, I got lost a little bit on the bike ride – my fault, though, so I’m not complaining – but the company was awesome and the bungee jumping amazing.



Saturday Night: The rest of the keg…


The result: Success!

Sunday Night: Sleep!

The result: Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Namhansanseong: One Things Leads Into Another

After the frenetic pace of the last few weeks this last weekend was a time for somber reflection and more than a little sleep. I still found the time, however, to go with a new friend – Rozalia, who I met at Muuido – on a small exploratory hike on the southeastern side of Seoul. It was, in a word, awesome. The hike was nothing to speak of – I am quickly being spoiled rotten by Korea’s amazing mountains – but the company was wonderful and the sights were second to none. Where else could I see an ancient Korean fortress walls, freshly tilled fields, and the single most beautiful temple I’ve ever seen? This country is just full of suprises.


The Southern Gate

Because every hike needs bubbles.

What? You're just jealous.

The fields, oh my god, the fields!

Rozalia with fields.

"Rozalia, how much do you love Namhansanseong?" "This much, Frankel!"


Mangwolsa (er, Mangwol Temple)







Yep. Utter perfection.